Frequently Asked Questions
Beard Cover Application
Nail Application and Removal
Application of Artificial Nails
Wearing the Nails
Removing the Artificial Nails
Foundation and Powder Application
Eyeshadow and Eyeliner Application
A sampling of tips and tricks for using my cosmetics and accessories. See my CD Makeover Guidebook and or my Makeover Video for lots more information.
Pink Goo: With your fingertip, pat small dabs of Pink Goo onto your beard and mustache area in several spots (about 14 spots) Pat smooth all over the beard and mustache area with a cosmetic sponge, leaving a light pink tinge. Then apply a good cream foundation. The color pink counteracts with the dark beard creating great coverage with only a little volume.
Tattoo and Beard Cover: Same application as above.
Clean and file your own natural nails, be sure to file the entire surface of your nails to create a smooth surface.
Pre-select the nails that you will be using by checking sizes. Apply a very small bead of nail glue across the far end of your natural nails about 1/8 inch from the end. Only a very small amount of glue is need. Using to much glue will be messy and make nail removal difficult.
If your natural nail is wider than the false nail, apply the glue right at the far end of your natural nails. Then you affix the false nail press the sides of your finger toward the nail so as to fold the cuticle onto the sides of the false nail.
Our Artificial nails can be filed or cut to shorter lengths, and can be repaired using nail glue and a file to fill in cracks.
Our Artificial nails can be re-used numerous times.
Apply a single coat of clear base coat polish.
Apply 2 coats of colored polish, allowing time to fully dry between coats.
Finish with a final coat of clear polish
These steps can be done before applying nails to the fingers if desired.
The Manufacturer does not recommend leaving the nails on for more than 48 hours at a time. Your natural nails require time to "breathe" to remain healthy.
Place the beveled or pointed end of a nail file under the lower corner of the false nail and apply pressure upward. A small amount of nail polish remover placed under the nail will allow the glue to loosen. If this is done properly the artificial nails can be re-used many times.
Beards are god's curse to crossdressers. Many of us can not afford or can't have electrolysis or laser treatments to remove our beards. Don't fret, cosmetics can help us a great deal. The first step is to obtain the closest shave possible. Start with a freshly washed face, then shave using the best quality razor and shaving cream you can get your hands on. Shave using downward strokes, then shave using upward strokes. Repeat this process two to three times to get the closest shave possible. Pay special attention to your chin and the area just above you lip and under your nose. Having a styptic pencil handy is good idea until you get used to shaving this closely. I can not stress enough the importance of shaving very, very closely.
Next, with a pair of cuticle scissors, carefully trim all nose and ear hairs. Many crossdressers forget this, and even after your makeup is removed, having no visible nose or ear hair is just a good practice to get into for anyone. Remington shavers even make electric shavers designed just for this purpose.
Now look at your face very carefully in a well lit mirror. You are looking for stray hairs on your nose and between your eyebrows. A tweezer will remove them quite easily. More about eyebrows later.
Now we are ready to begin applying beard cover and foundation. Start by generously applying a moisturizer all over your face and neck. Use our Pink Goo Beard Cover, or our Tattoo and Beard Cover for the heaviest darkest beards. Apply with a cosmetic sponge to the beard and mustache areas using a "patting" motion. Next we apply the foundation, I use a crème foundation, it comes in many shades, is inexpensive, and covers very well without having that "shiny" look that many others have. Here at the Fantasygirl salon we use Celebre brand cream based foundations. They go on lightly, and are easy to use and look great. Using a cosmetic sponge, begin smoothing and blotting the foundation over your face and neck. Use a patting method, to ensure even coverage. Make sure you evenly blend all over, including the eyelid eyebrow and ear areas. What you are doing here is creating an even skin tone all over your face and neck. A key tip here is the word light, do not apply the foundation to heavily. Repeat this application in lighter layers until the effect is a clear smooth complexion.
Next, we apply a loose powder, which will set and smooth out the foundation. Our loose powder is the perfect tone for setting our foundation crème. I use a powder puff to apply the powder. Once again, use sparingly, too much powder looks terrible, and will make any lines on your face more pronounced. Take the powder puff and place in jar of powder, remove and tap lightly to shake of excess powder. Then pat the powder puff all over your face, starting at the top and moving downward. make sure to use a "patting" motion, do not rub your face with the puff as this will cause streaking of the foundation. Leave the loose powder on your face for 3-5 minutes to allow it to "set". With a large powder brush, using a downward motion starting at your forehead and finishing at the base of your neck, brush any excess powder from your face.
If you are wearing a low cut dress or blouse, just continue the coverage down to where the dress or top ends on your chest to have a continuous even skin tone in all visible areas.
There you have it. With practice and experimenting, you can achieve the look we all desire. No beard shadow, and an even skin tone, which is so important in looking good.
A FEW TIPS
- Use a professional beard cover. Nothing else will work like a good beard cover.
- Don't use "liquid" foundations. They will not cover your beard.
- Use a loose setting powder, not a compact pressed powder. Our setting powder is perfectly matched to our foundations.
- Don't worry about getting any powder or foundation on your lips or eyelashes. This will actually help later when you apply lipsticks and mascara.
Your eyes are where you can have the most fun, and use the most colors with cosmetics. Also
doing a good job with your eye makeup is the most important and noticeable part of your "look".
ALL eyes look their best in neutral shades. I suggest starting with neutral shades before experimenting with brighter colors. The goal in applying eye shadow is to accentuate your eyes, not your eye shadow.
Here is a guide for colors that match different eye colors.
- Blue Eyes.......pinks, lavenders, charcoal
- Brown Eyes....ivory, ginger, rose
- Green Eyes....peach, gray, rose brown
To get your eye shadow just right, you must practice practice, practice. This is the area where you can make the most difference in your appearance, and the area of your face that most people look at when speaking to you. You will need an eye shadow brush, I prefer to use pressed powder shadows as they go on easier and stay on longer than loose powders, or creams, and much easier to correct mistakes than when using creme eye shadows. First make sure you have shaped your eyebrows and removed any stray eyebrow hairs. The key word when applying eye shadows is BLEND BLEND BLEND. You can use 3, even 4 shades and colors to make your eyes look wonderful and alluring. There are 3 parts to your eyelid, the lower lid which goes from your eyelashes to the line where the eye socket is indented (the crease), the indentation or crease itself, which is the line that separates your lower from the upper lid, and the upper lid, the ridge that is above the crease to the brow.
Here are my suggestions for applying shadow to different eye shapes and settings.
If you have large wide open eyes, use a deep shade on the lower lid, with a lighter tone of the same color on the crease and upper lid. Remember to follow the natural contour of your eye.
Next add a darker tone of the same color to the outside corner of the lower lids, and remember
to blend all the tones to have a subtle look. Next put a dab of a light colored shadow on the center of your upper lid.
Use a light shade on the lower lids, a smokey color along the crease. Use a lighter, slightly frosted color on the upper lid, with a thin line on the inside edge and growing wider as you get to the outer edge. An eyeliner in the same color as the lower lid applied directly on the crease should be used as well. A white eyeliner applied inside the rim of your lower eyelashes should be used as well. Now you have larger alluring eyes!
Closed Set (close together) Eyes
Make sure you tweeze ALL the hairs between your eyebrows. Use a pale color from the inner corner of your eyes diagonally upward to the outside corner, covering the top third and bottom third of your lower lid and upper lid. Now using a deep colored shadow, cover the remaining two thirds of both lids, extending the shadow just beyond the outer edge of your eyes.
Narrow eyes (little space between lashes and brows)
Using the same shadow color on all areas, sweep a diagonal from the inner eye area across both lids to the outer edge. Use the same shadow and run a line under your lower eyelashes from the outer edge of your iris to the outer corner of your eye. Use a blue eyeliner on your lower lashes. Also do not curl your lashes. This will give your narrow eyes a wider, fuller look.
Those are the basic eye shapes, and how I apply cosmetics to bring out the best in them. Through practice and experimenting, you can come up with an endless variety of looks, colors and have a lot of fun doing it. Remember for Day time looks that less is more. Look at the women you work with, see in stores and magazines, after all, they do this every day. For night looks, you can go with more shadow and more color to allow for lighting and more dramatic effect. Purchase an inexpensive set of shadows, they come in sets of up to 30 colors, set aside an afternoon and have fun.
This is most difficult thing to obtain perfection with all of the cosmetics you will use. There are two types to chose from, liquid or pencil. Liquid eyeliner is more difficult to use, but the results can be much better with practice and patience. Make sure you purchase a liquid eyeliner with a very fine tip. They are like felt tip pens, and the smaller the tip, the finer a line you can achieve. You can even cut the tip with a razor blade to obtain a very fine point. Pencils come in two types, the old fashioned #2 wooden pencil version, and the newer self sharpening version. Placing the pencil version in your freezer for 15 minutes will allow you to sharpen them properly without waste, and allow you to obtain a fine point. Practice drawing fine lines on your hand until you feel confidant that you are ready to start on your eyes. What you are trying to avoid is creating "raccoon" eyes. heavy liner all around your eyes.
EYES that are close together
Start at a point from just ahead of your eyeball, and run the pencil outward to the edge of the eye, keeping the line very fine at the beginning and widening it a bit at the end. Do this on the top and bottom lids.
EYES that are equal distance (normal set)
If your measure the same length as the distance from inner eye to inner eye ( at the bridge of the nose) then you have normal set eyes. Start your line at a point just slightly to the nose side of the iris, once again, use a fine line at the start, and widen it as you reach the outside edge of the eye. Extend the line just a teensy bit past the outside edge of the eye. Do this for both top and bottom lids.
EYES that are far apart
Start your line about one third from the corner of the inner eye and work outward to the outer edge, keeping a fine line all the way.
Most people look good in darker colors, stick with browns and charcoals at first until you gain experience in applying the eyeliners, and until you begin to get adventurous. For eyes that are red from being tired, ill, or strained, try using a blue eyeliner on your lower lid. Make your line above the lashes. The blue color will make the whites of your eyes look whiter.
A FEW TIPS
If you are having a difficult time making a fine straight line with your eyeliner. Try making a series of small dots instead of the full line. Then take a Q-Tip and connect the dots.
A white eyeliner pencil applied on the lower lid, above the lashes will make any eyes appear larger.
Never Never Never have skin showing between the eyeliner and the lashes.